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Moving onto the outer balljoint bolts, both were 19mm in my case and were easy to access using a 19mm or 3/4" open ended wrench. It's especially easy when you don't have your tires on either.
Step 5:
Once bolts all bolts are removed the only thing holding the control arms on is essentially rust and seized on. Not to worry, nothing a simple pickle fork and 3 lb hammer can't take care of.
Anyways working on either the inner or outer balljoints just wedge the pickle fork between the balljoints where they meet the front subframe and hit the pickle fok with the 3 lb hammer. A few good whacks and they should pop free.
Step 6:
Now that the control arms are out (well in my case) I could see how much play the balljoints were giving, no wonder why my car failed inspection. Especially compared to the newer Meyle ones where there was virtually no play what so ever.
Anyways installation is the reverse of removal with the exception of changing the carrier bushings. At first I was going to install a set of BavAutos Urethene bushing but they eneded up being too small I beleive 59/60mm as opposed to my carriers being 65/66mm <-- (Correct me if I'm wrong)
So off to the dealership to pay full price for a new pair of OEM bushings. $140 later, come home and finih up the install. Easiest way to remove the old carrier bushings intact without making a mess was to use a 3 jaw puller. I had one around fom previous job so this is a tool to definately keep handy if you plan on working on your car alot.
Old Bushing removed from control arm:
Old vs. New Control Arms:
Anyways setup the puller on the carrier and it will pull most of the old carrier off and soe rubber will still be attached to the arm. To remove the rest I just stood on the old arm and pulled the carriers off rubber bushing and all, not mess etc... You can however do it the messy way of taking a dremel tool to the ruber and spewing oil everywhere.
Step 7:
Installing the new bushing carriers to arms is simple, just first double check to make sure you have them going on the right way. Once you know for sure lube up the arms and bushing with plenty of grease and press the carrier bushings onto the arms.
Step 8:
Reinstalling the control arms, splash guard, engine brace which is reverse of removal. Make sure you tighten everything down to spec and it is RECCOMMENDED however not neccessary to change out the carrier bushing bolts and engine/frame brace bolts.
Step 9:
Lower Car, install wheels and enjoy your nice stiffer steering. One thing I'd like to make note of is that I did not need an alignment afterwards and the car did seem to have a noticably stiffer steering as I mentioned before. Hopefully these balljoints last longer than 2 years (I hardly drive my car as well barely pushing 60k on the odometer)
I wish I could have installed the urethene bushings as well but things didn't go quite as planned oh well next time I guess
Good Luck and enjoy!
